Best belay rope reddit. 274 votes, 101 comments.
Best belay rope reddit. I wasn’t a huge fan. Check out this Mammut. The route setting there is really good and changes often but there are no ropes. When I belay heavier climbers, I stand closer to the wall in order to have less slack in the system and to prevent a ground fall. May 29, 2023 · So, " It is the best ever " means it's the best of all time, up to the present. The ATC doesn’t have this. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. I was only taught one way by an engineer - I had assumed this was because it was the best way. (180= Max friction, parallel ropes= least). It is most definitely safer for top rope, and climbing is all about removing those little 'happens once in a thousand' accidents. Between chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry, I like vanilla the best can be used when choosing from some choices. Just wondering what everyone else’s We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The belay loop is mostly just for belaying, but also useful in establishments that prefer to use carabiners over knots for liability reasons. When I see a colleague of mine writing such a phrase, I usually point out that it is a kind of old-fashioned affected valediction which, probably, nowadays, a native English speaker wouldn't May 25, 2022 · "Which one is the best" is obviously a question format, so it makes sense that " which one the best is " should be the correct form. Its ability to secure up to 8. 11-5. ago Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. Use a tree and practice rigging and ascending fixed ropes, rigging hauls and and escaping the belay. Looking at other posts, it sounds like the Juls are the best option to resolve this, but I’m seeing mixed reviews on whether the Jul2 or I'm looking to buy my first belay device. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. From the belay the leader simul belays the second and third climber with autoblocking ATC. Best belay plate/ATC? So I went and got a nice skinny rope (sub 9 mm)and my old belay plate dosen't handle this new rope well. Wall times and reservations for time slots to climb at the top-rope wall are all located at https://recwell. it seems like there are a lot of great bouldering places but i can’t see myself regularly bouldering that often! Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. A couple of months just before I started rope climbing (had only been bouldering for a few years prior) there was an incident in another gym where the auto belay failed and the person fell to their death. Weighted ropes get cut really easily. I also prefer two biners for the rope so that it has a larger b) The leader ties in to the middle of the rope and the second and third climber are tied in to an end each. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. If the angle of the rope is acute enough, the rope should slip gently through a relaxed grip, and the friction of the belay device (not friction against skin) is what controls the descent. The only reason rope burns would happen from a belay is if the belayer were gripping the rope tightly which shouldn’t ever happen. Jan 2, 2016 · The word "best" is an adjective, and adjectives do not take articles by themselves. The second ascender will be attached to another locker, short sling, which is then attached through both tie-in loops via a third locker. The angle between the ropes (from climber to brake end) is what causes friction to be applied. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. I’ve been looking into getting a mammut smart belay device and have a question about taking in rope. I think if you’re paying under $150 for a name brand rope you are doing pretty well. Feb 12, 2024 · The quality and versatility of the Petzl Grigri 2 have made it one of the best belay devices of the year and a popular choice amongst climbers. That practice has stayed common in the UK as each new generation of climbers learn from the older generation. Sorry hard to explain via text, check out some pictures if needed. One thing I learned from a local Joshua Tree legend is that top roping through aluminum makes your rope dirty with aluminum filings. Will it damage the rope in the case of a follower fall? Probably not, but it might fuzz up your rope a bit. 9-9mm ropes so it'll be much more like a rappell you're used How I self belay top rope with the Shunt - Dave MacLeod comments Best Add a Comment Altiloquent • 1 yr. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. Am I going to die? Any advice very welcome! Building an outdoor climbing wall. I think "traditional belay devices will offer reduced braking" means you need to check and make sure your belay device is 'matched' to the rope. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. 6 mm and 9. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. When testing rope/belay device combinations, my goto is to set up a short rappel. By keeping the rope taught and the micro traxion oriented upright the rope feeds through the devices seamlessly. 5mm and you can use 1 or 2 ropes with it. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. Generally I feel best being belayed with whatever my belayer feels most comfortable with. The best way of preventing a heart attack is to both exercise regularly and eat well. 1. This prevents slack from building up in the rope, no need to stop and feed it through the devices. A v groove tube device (ATC guide/reverso) is best for half/twin rope diameters, the brake strand drops into the high friction V groove and naturally guides the climber strand of rope on top of it. You should also become more comfortable rappelling because it's a pretty important skill to have. 5-10mm ropes, so this hasn't been an issue so far. Just seated hip belay or find some rock gear. What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. The easiest solution would be to get the ATC-Alpine Guide which is designed to 6. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Consider this: how would an ATC-XP work if you tried to rappel on 6mm cord? By normal belay I meant - top rope style set up in a gym - which I now know is redirect. If it's easy to control the ropes, it's likely easy to belay and possible to stop a fall. However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. In some situations having as much rope as possible can be very important. Because the noun car is modified by the superlative adjective best, and because this makes the noun car definite in this context, we use the. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). He didn't point out that the mule should be done as close to the belay device as possible. I got a 60m Edelrid rope last month for a little over $80 and picked up seven draws, a pair of slings, and a rope bag for around $85 just a few days after that between discounts, cash-back, and free shipping to the Sierra Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. Hi, my half ropes' lifespan comes to an end soon and I m looking at new options. When we replace the superlative "the best" with the normal version, we get this: Oct 18, 2018 · In your context, the best relates to {something}, whereas best relates to a course of action. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. best top rope/auto belay climbing hi! i might be moving to pittsburgh for school soon and was wondering what gyms are the best for top rope climbing. Another great option I am surprised nobody mentioned: the Edelrid Mega Jul. It's the best all in one brake assisted belay device I've used so far. My focus was on my climber, as usual. Is at as safe as using an actual belay device? Probably not. They taught us the typical "pull -> brake -> under -> slide" technique. The only things I don't particularly want in normal circumstances would be a body-belay or a munter-hitch belay So i'm looking for a simple slip on shoe that can be used both indoor and outdoor for belaying and moving from route to route without the faf of putting on my socks and normal shoes every time. 6mm kinda borderline for the Reverso whose single rope rating starts at 8. It definitely depends on your personal comfort zone, but the only time I rope up for class 3 or 4 terrain is if there is crazy exposure. Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? My local climbing course taught the first Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. The device only works properly with very specific carabiners, with very specific rope thicknesses, and very specific rope conditions ( too new in wont lock, too old and the device becomes to grippy to belay without using strength to move the rope. Any tips as I get prepared for the weekend? I'm getting a bit nervous/excited. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. Belayer with top rope) lead climbing and belaying and multiple falls from different hights for 75€ (students) / 100 € everyone else It is mandatory to know how to belay dynamic with your body and that you learned to fall from above the last clip Building an outdoor climbing wall. I like chocolate best, better than anything else can be used when what one is choosing from is not specified I like you the best. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. Those skills will allow you do many rope rescue scenarios. Taking my eyes off the climber for a moment, I inspected my belay setup and realized that my shirt had somehow gotten sucked into the I mean, yes, the rope is in the brake position more of the time, but it is a much slower way to belay as I can't take up as much rope with my hands down below my harness. But how would a party of four manage a multipitch? Almost all UK centres will only require you to fill in a waiver (best done online ahead of visiting) and then demonstrate competency - usually by identifying mistakes in photographs or by physically demonstrating that you can belay. clipped on the Clip what to the bolts? Just a locker through your belay loop? Have fun with your 3 inch range of motion while you try to pull the rope and set the next rap. Minneapolis bouldering project is the other big gym here. I use a short Sterling hollowblock for 99% of my friction hitch needs. My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes. My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. . Or you can show up and auto belay and try to get to know people. There is also a Minnesota rock climbers group on Facebook. Thin cord doesn't produce enough friction in many belay/rappel devices, so you have to know some less-commom friction rigging techniques (Super Munter) and maybe even carry some different gear. It's what makes your rope all black. S. And the rope wont move like normal top roping when you advance. Plastic, wood, or metal container? What was the best choice for this purpose? Plastic, wood, or metal container? What was best to choose for this purpose? Either is acceptable, and the practical meaning is the same, but their referents, implicit not explicit, are different. Some people struggle with breaking while rappelling – they overshoot targets, strain their hands or arms or underestimate tricky slopes When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. Petzl Microtraxion + Spirit Screwgate After testing multiple self-rescue rope scenarios and 5:1’s in a guided course using only friction hitches and belay devices, I purchased one because it’s so light, and having an efficient pocket ascender/rope grab gives me a little extra confidence. when one rope gets a coreshot, reducing rope drag by clipping just one strand etc. I’m wondering what peoples thoughts are about the new belay device from petzl. ). Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Will it hold a fall? Most definitely. Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. Pickets are for summer here, at best. With the G+ that can be mitigated. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. One ascender will be attached to a locking biner and directly to my belay loop. Have you ever rappelled on a skinny (<=6mm) static cord before? It's very different from climbing rope, and (if you're not prepared for it) can be downright dangerous. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. I've mostly used 9. Should you need to ascend a rope, you will need friction hitches, so why not rappel with one? I outweigh my partner, so he uses assisted-braking to belay me from his harness, but switches to an ATC Guide to belay from an anchor or rappel. They really come in handy on rappels, especially long free hanging ones. Maybe just use a prussic? Newbie climber here, what is the difference in the belay devices from black diamond? Specifically the ATC, the ATC-XP, and the Figure 8. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. Rope burns are known to occur in half rope technique with HMS in the HMS carabiner itself, or when lowering in a redirect carabiner, in which two independent ropes are simultaneously hung and loaded, but only lowered through one strand (a possible accident scenario in sport climbing). Meanwhile one of the people I refuse to let belay me swears by gri gris, and also don’t bother with brake hands on dead rope. This weekend I am climbing my first multi pitch, a route called Whymper in the Blue Mountains of Australia. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device Reply reply SkiMonkey98 • the ‘right’ way to belay I totally agree it's weird to ban Grigris, but you should also 100% be using the 'right' belay technique with your brake hand constantly on the rope, if only to build good habits for when you inevitably end up using an ATC for whatever reason Reply reply thefiendhitman • I wasn’t looking at all but with my default brake hand position using an ATC I caught the fall without any problems, and it reinforced my faith in the belay devices and techniques. Think of this differently. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) I'm assuming you mean anchors on the ground for the top rope belayer to attach themselves to. In the video from mammut, it shows the belayer fully taking his hand off the rope while taking in slack. Long story short, I like the Edelrid Mega Jul with their HMS Bruce Steel FG carabiner and another non-locking carabiner that fits the nose of the device to lower on top belay and rappel. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. I was always taught one hand needs to stay on the rope below the belay device at all times, but is that not necessary with this device because of the assisted braking properties? Share One could, but I use 200ft ropes and they are very coiled on a rope bag on belay side so kinda defeats the purpose since you wouldn't even ever see it. The zigzag is not midline detachable like the akimbo and RRP. 7-11mm ropes, so its going to be a FAST rappel if you're only rappelling on that rope (as opposed to using it like a tagine). " It was the best ever " means either it was the best up to that point in time, and a better one may have happened since then, or it includes up to the present. However, as I started removing the slack, I felt resistance from the belaying device, and I couldn't feed the rope through anymore. I tied a prussik around the rope, then tie that into my backpack. Adjust length such that all strands are tight - pretty much always out of reach hence the clove hitches on the harness. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. Climber submitted reviews, questions answered, and deals posted on gear across the web. However, this is not the only way to use the phrase; "the best way" can also be followed by of with a gerund: The best way of increasing morale in the workplace is to care about the workers. (At least in my I'm going to use a single 60m rope folded in two, and using a double figure-eight/bunny ears at the TR anchors. Fig8 twists the rope badly both on rappel, and on belay, unless you use it like an ATC. I encountered an unusual situation today while belaying on top rope with a grigri today. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. " Sure, if someone's nearby and comes over to The belay loop is the best example. You really only need prusiks but I prefer tibloc and micro ascenders. Takes a bit of getting used to but it's basically a high tech ATC with a shitload of advantages, like having a (semi) auto-lock using the krab attaching it and the rope to your belay loop as a sort of cam to pinch the rope, similar to the way the grigri cam works. I'm moving away from top rope and going to try some outdoor sport/lead climb stuff. However, if you are absolutely hurting for some climbing, try the minitrax toprope setup. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. ) it's a pretty light belay device. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore You just going to let your partner hang there? What if you caught the fall early but the rope cut into the edge of glacier? How long can you lay prone on the snow as your partner prussiks out? What if your partner got flipped over? What if help is hours or days away? In the US, most would consider it bad form to want to wait for the "professionals. You should really find somebody to provide hands on instruction before you go out and do this. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. There you go. It's a 5 pitch sport climb rated 19 (5. The 2 biggest things to keep in mind are that thin ropes cut more easily on edges, and half/twin ropes stretch much more, which can result in decking on a Rope goes through each bit of gear and is clove-hitched back to an HMS on the figure of eight rope loop at the harness (not belay loop). Here are our in-depth reviews. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). You can just use dummy weight to simulate a partner, I use a 5gallon water jug. Lead off one strand or climb double rope style. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). So the best handling belay device would probably be the petzl reverso 2 (with the loop for autoblock mode), but it doesn't have any breaking capabilities when you're belaying the leader or using a toprope. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. Is the 8. I see more and more young A 70m might be nice if you're thinking about linking pitches and then setting up a slingshot top rope for TR parties, but you could just as easily belay from above. My belay device (reverso) is rated for 8. Continental mid-winter faceted snowpack laughs at the idea of bomber snow belays. 274 votes, 101 comments. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing If you asked the manufacturer they would say absolutely not due to obvious liability, however if you understand the risks then you can make your own decision. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Especially from those who have already have had a chance to use them. Is this a sign I am using improper technique? The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. My options are 8. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. Learn how to hip belay and take a rope on your hike. Mar 25, 2015 · The best way to use "the best way" is to follow it with an infinitive. Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? About a month ago my climbing partner and I got top rope certified for our gym. My go-to is wherever has the best sales and what sites ActiveJunky is giving the biggest cash-back rewards for using. I prefer it to the VE bouldering gym. When I give rope, I feed it through the belay device and at the same time I take a step towards the wall to speed things up. If you're tying into a rope the way most people do you should be putting the rope through both loops already. The prusik on the other hand will sometimes provide too much friction to let the rope I didn't like how the Smart Belay performed in this situation. 5 mm single rope. I do a good mix of indoor and outdoor lead climbing and belay gloves are awesome! Your hands can get dirty so the gloves are nice when flaking a rope that’s been outside. I typically climb in a really dusty/dirty area and I’m curious about how people think a neox would handle that. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. Oct 20, 2016 · Both sentences could mean the same thing, however I like you best. 5mm? Is the 8. This is the right answer. It's why we tie a knot at the end of a rope for instance. Benefit of the ATC is it doubles as a rappel device and it’s much easier to use. It allows you to do double rope rappels that are auto (assisted)locking (though it is not as smooth as rappelling with an atc and it can be tiring if your ropes are big, you weigh a lot, or you are doing a free hanging rappel with two ropes as there is a lot of weight on the device trying to lock it. I have a shunt which is good for ropes of 10mm plus. note: this is not to say you shouldn't use dynema to build your anchor and tie in with the rope or belay off of it. I'm looking at the various options for my backup rope fall arrester. Most of the time you should be solidly self-belaying anyway with good steps and an ice-axe rather than pitching snow. My question is, how can I improve my We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 8mm - 10. The safest belay devices would be stuff like the grigri or trango cinch, but they sacrifice handling. The home of Climbing on reddit. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? I've mixed rope diameters for DRT but only a small diameter difference. For lead it introduces some risk because you can't give and take rope fast enough but that means nothing for why it's best for top. It might seems obvious to some, but the knot will slip down to the belay device and feed extra rope on the climber side, thus lowering the leader. Rock climbing uses dynamic ropes (stretchy) to combat the effects of shock loading in the event of a fall from If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Take a belay test any time the main wall is open, and you'll be able to belay everyone as you see fit. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. The ropes we have vary from 9mm to 11mm. We met some good friends through it. I'm looking to acquire a new dry treated single rope for glacier traverses. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. I’m also interested to see longer term how they’ll handle consistent use, I suspect the rolling feature will help spread out I've used that rope, and I think it's a great rope. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. You don't typically climb trees like a rock face, you use your harness to take your weight to allow movement through the crown where climbing without ropes would be impossible. This includes escaping your own belay, jugging a rope, aiding efficiently, lowering out etc. I've recently got the Petzl Rad line to try out as a glacier travel and rappelling rope for ski mountaineering. A Grigri is very easy to use, and its semiautomatic brake is really safe. So the damage is accumulated on one spot of the rope where the sharp edge is. You don't need to move your hand higher up (into the unlocked range) to feed out rope. 1 mm Beal ropes. Reasons for not liking auto belays. An ATC is more delicate as its proper use requieres more attention and experience. 6 going to perform as well as a thicker rope? Avoiding to pinch hand in belay device when taking fall and there is large weight difference between climber and belaye. After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. In which case you ought to use any one of the modern ATC equivalents. If it is true, what is the fine difference between the two? Steve's suggestion is the best, but if you want to apologise in a more formal way, then: I deeply regret what occurred, and I promise that I will make every effort and do everything in my power to prevent its reoccurrence. I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). I use body, shoulder, biner, feature, axe, running and hand over hand when suitable in the alpine. Practicing in gyms is a great way to get solid at the skill. you've just incorporated stretchy rope into your system, congrats! I use belay gloves when I am belaying a lead climber, it just gives you some more friction against the rope. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Plenty of material for a third hand or improv rope grab for hauling, and easily paired with a sling for ascending. Rope diameter from 7. My boyfriend and I have gotten into climbing and recently got belay certified by the gym we climb at. You can use it on twin/half ropes, as a descender and also, it is semiautomatic for a lead climber too! New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. Is your partner also directly through the bolts with a biner on the belay loop? Now you’re completely on top of each other. The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use. I mostly just use a grigri for hard single-pitch sport climbing where I'm expecting the climber to be falling or hanging on the rope a lot. $120 for 60m is pretty fair. Nov 15, 2016 · I want to convey the feeling that "do whatever you feel is the best"? How should I incorporate the phrase "deems fit" in my sentence? Apr 13, 2017 · In one post, a commenter maintained that the phrases "I did my best" and "I did the best I could" don't mean quite the same thing. Here, we have the adjective best, but this adjective is attached to no noun. 10a). edu/ -> Climbing and Challenge Climb Lafayette Looking for more of a focused climbing experience on awesome bouldering walls? I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. Just belay from the ground. Try using two oval carabiners O&O with your belay device for less jamming and increased friction. I have been using a regular tube ATC to belay and am comfortable with it, but if he’s hanging I have to use a good amount of arm strength to hold him. It is much easier to belay quickly from the top than with a reverso, so if you're going for speed and efficiency on an easy route, I'd say I found it helpful to explain to friends unfamiliar with tube style belay devices how they work. It is best not to do something. That's why i think it's best to use 2 strands of rope always. I learned how to do this by myself, taking baby steps to avoid death. If on multi-pitch, this option has a zero likelihood - your belayer will be tied in to the other end of the rope. Your ATC-XP is rated for 7. 9-11mm ropes, for example, is just one rare versatile quality that it has to offer. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. purdue. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. I just realized today I have no idea what's best to use :P edit: I've only used a gri-gri as a belay device. Just wondered what peoples thoughts were on the sections with 9mm rope? All of the options I can see are only rated for ropes of 10mm plus. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. If I know there are bolts for the anchor then I dedicate those biners for it. In comparison with the rope wrench + hitch climber the chicane and zigzag take up more length as well because with the hitch climber you can put the carabiner through the rope wrench and the top hole on the hitch climber. You do this by securing yourself to one locker on two strands (with a clove hitch and the rope) and place your belay device on the other two strands to belay up your follower. don't use the belay loop with a rope. If you don't use it, consider it training for carrying heavy packs. I like to use the Edelrid biners with stainless inserts for top roping when I can. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. and metal work can go through the belay loop. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. e. It's both a pain and a real danger (as it may flip completely). I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. And yes we are scared of falling. g. But that’s kind of a weird context, most hardcore alpinists just free solo and carry a rope with them for retreating and rappelling when going solo. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. My only idea so far is a croc (or similar cheaper version), just wondering if this is something other people do when climbing and if so what do you wear? This is why I tell my belayers to keep the brake hand at least perpendicular to the belay device. The larger the angle between the two ropes, the more friction. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. I’ll admit I’ve used a single half rope to simul in easy terrain a bunch. Nov 13, 2015 · 5 In Europe, it is not uncommon to receive emails with the valediction With best/kind regards, instead of the more typical and shorter Best/Kind regards. P. If the rope is frozen or once or twice after dropping the belay device I use a munther hitch. When I belay someone, I don't need to move my hand above perpendicular to the belay device at any time. I have a longer Beal cord that I occasionally use, but the hollowblock is my go-to. There are some pretty good sales right now. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. The waist belt was connected to the leg loops by the tie-in loop of the rope which in turn formed the belay loop where the belay device was clipped in. Does anyone know of any other brand making these, or should I just try to find one secondhand? For clarity, the Rad That goes straight into the belay loop. You can experiment with pulleys too if you are willing to carry them. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). 5-10. I am climbing with somebody that has a bit of experience with multis so I'm looking forward to an educational day out. Like its uses, why its different, pros & cons Also which one I should get, I have been using my gyms belay devices, which is just a regular ACT, and I want my own. Oct 20, 2016 · Both sentences could mean the same thing, however I like you best. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. If you're REALLY lucky, you will be close enough to the belay that you can free up enough rope to rappel back down - generally, you have to be within 1/3 the rope length from the belay. A tree climbing harness is a work positioning device, a rock climbing harness is a fall arrest device. Picket is a great way to backup a hip belay (use the squishy dynamic meat human to "protect" the much less than What is more preferred for glacier travel: static/hyperstatic ropes like a rad line or something like a dynamic alpine rope? I’d imagine you don’t want to fall on a static line into a crevasse as that would hurt pretty bad, but it seems like people love the rad lines? I’m a total noob to glacier travel so any advice is appreciated. Also, most prussik cord is 5mm OP, don’t listen to the people saying you have bad technique if you use belay gloves. You made an excellent choice! So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. We can probably learn just as much from the mistakes of the average climber as the expertise of a pro climber :) Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for The device only works properly with very specific carabiners, with very specific rope thicknesses, and very specific rope conditions ( too new in wont lock, too old and the device becomes to grippy to belay without using strength to move the rope. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. But you definitely need to take some precautions. In autoblock mode it twists and pinches the rope sideways when a seconding climber weighs it - the grooves are simply too big for the rope. Most of the time when I fall, I don't want to come back down. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. I am doing sport and alpine multipitch and so far I had a single rope for sport (light, belay with grigri, easy handling rope management) and half ropes for alpine (for long abseils, extra safesty e. The smart is my favourite belay device. A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). This is very good instinct, and you could even argue that the grammar is good, but at best it's unnatural. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. Does rope burn on my brake hand mean I am not belaying correctly? TL;DR I just started learning to belay someone on a top rope (not lead climbing) and the friction from the rope sliding through my brake hand as I choke up or slide up the rope toward the ATC is causing rope burns. iuhbo bjzuwbq szp avwjy xmvab ixtkp bkw xig zulod qnd